Boiler Repairs London

Check first: The pressure gauge on the boiler. Most systems sit between 1 and 1.5 bar when cold. Then check the thermostat is turned up and the timer is on.

Likely cause: Low pressure, a lockout, a failed diverter valve, or a frozen condensate pipe in cold weather. Tell us whether it is the heating, the hot water, or both.

Check first: Note the code or flashing light pattern first, then try one reset. Only one.

Likely cause: Ignition failure, flame detection or low pressure. If it locks out again straight away, stop resetting and call. Repeated resets hide the fault rather than fix it.

Check first: The gauge with the system cold. Between 1 and 1.5 bar is normal.

Likely cause: A slow drop over months is normal top-up territory. A drop over days usually means a leak, a failed expansion vessel, or a discharging pressure relief valve.

Check first: Where the water is coming from: inside the casing, a pipe joint, or the outside discharge pipe. If the valve is safe to reach, turn off the water supply to the boiler.

Likely cause: Each location points somewhere different. Keep water clear of electrics and tell us where you saw it.

Check first: Write the code down exactly, or photograph the display.

Then: Codes are manufacturer specific, so the same code means different things on a Worcester and a Vaillant. Look up your make, model and code together, or call 0203 868 6251 with all three and we can tell you what is likely involved.

Check first: What the noise sounds like: a rumble like a kettle, a gurgle, or a whine.

Likely cause: Kettling points to limescale or sludge in the heat exchanger. Gurgling points to trapped air or poor circulation. A whine or grind points to the pump.